Life on the Big Bay

Solar Wind with her maximum Flopper Stopper swell protection

The Bay of Banderas has been “home” for 3 weeks now. It covers about 25 square miles, like a sea really. The coastline has only two good holding anchorages. We have explored it to the extent that we want and tomorrow we plan to head north as far as the town of San Blas. We’re ready for a change, but will come back here in a week or so to pick up the exhaust pipe that we hope (just now) has shipped from Ontario to the Marina here at La Cruz via UPS. Hope to get this update posted before we travel, and CHECK BACK TO OUR THANKSGIVING POSTING AS WE WERE ABLE TO ADD SOME PHOTOS!

We took some time after Thanksgiving to motor the perimeter of the bay --  south to Yelapa, Las Animas, and Boca de Tomatlan (of which we have great memories from our family trip 4 years ago). It was fun to see these palapa-lined beaches from the water. We ended the day at Marina Vallarta, in the heart of downtown PV, thinking we’d rent a slip. Unable to hail anyone on a Saturday afternoon at the marina office (gone for the weekend was all we could glean), we ended up “camping out” in a slip by bribing the security guard to let us stay. We got some diesel, cleaned up and took a taxi into town. Not wanting to do proper research, we took a flyer and asked the cab driver to take us to eat comida mexicana, no muy carro, pero mucho authentico. We got two out of three. Good Mexican food and not too expensive, but Pipi’s, just off the malecon, turned out to be an authentic tourist concession -- cousin to Farrell’s ice-cream parlor, with the world’s biggest margaritas and burritos, and an endless stream of singing waiters and English speakers. But truly a happy place, fun evening, and a safe bet. We hope Pipi’s continues to thrive.

After dinner we walked the malecon and had the privilege of watching a group of Huichol natives in traditional costume, do their pole dance on the beach—amazing and beautiful. They climb a 100’ pole and hang by their ankles from ropes as they unwind to land on the ground.

We spent the next four nights at the north end of the bay, anchored off Punta Mita.  Again, an easy anchorage with good holding, but plenty of swell. We frequented the shoreline restaurants for a dinner, a breakfast, and several afternoon beverages. We found it easy to make friends with the waiters, and in one case with the owner. They appreciated our business as the cafes were mostly empty. We asked if they were worried about the lack of business but they all said it would be picking up. We walked into town, did some grocery shopping, and saw the spill-over effects of its location right on the edge of a huge Four Seasons golfing resort complex. One day we tried to take a bus to Sayulita on the other side of the point, but learned that the only bus route involved a ride 20 miles in the other direction, changing busses to came back past where we started, then reversing for the return. We changed the day trip into a bus ride to The Mega (everything store) to provision. While we were sorry not to have seen Sayulita, we had 30 minute world-class rollercoaster rides rounding hairpin turns overlooking the ocean for $1 each way!

Punta Mita is known as a good surfing beach for beginners, so many Mexican families come to spend vacations there too. We soon learned the many different ways to say, “No thank you,” to the vendors who are peddling everything from silver jewelry, to cheap sunglasses, hammocks, cigars and woodcarving.  Some we spoke our Spanglish with and a couple we bought something from.  Lanham is a sucker for giving some pesos “para su ninos” even though we aren’t interested in buying. All in all, they seem like kind and hard-working salespeople – not obnoxiously pushy. But it continues to bring to the forefront all that we have as we visit this not quite second-world country.

Another thing we (almost) acquired at Punta Mita was a cockroach infestation! We used the kayaks for our trips to the beach and one afternoon we stacked them on a boulder bulkhead rather than leaving them on the sandy beach. Upon return we noticed immediately that they were crawling with small roaches. Dreading what we thought was the inevitable bug on the boat, we took the kayaks into waste deep water and did our best to drown them all, paddled back and only boarded the Solar Wind after bathing ourselves in the ocean. Comet bleach on the swim step and on the lines tying the kayaks off the boat was the best we could do to try to discourage any hitchers from boarding overnight. The next day we took the kayaks back on shore and baked them in the sun on the hot sand (staying away from those dark moist rocks). Pretty sure we got off easy with none on board and have since stocked up on some spray and little traps, assuring that we will never need them!

We headed back to La Cruz for a night of cleaning up in the marina. The day was spent with laundry (delivery and pick up that is, something I could enjoy getting used to), a major boat washing & polishing (really salty and grimy – but looking good now), and oil purchasing. I wanted to spend another day helping out at the Biblioteca and had made some flash card for games that I wanted deliver. We had a wonderful dinner at yet another restaurant near the marina – highlighted by a dozen raw oysters that we watched them pick up right out front in the bay. They were wonderful fresh tasting oysters, and while we are only speculating, we fear that they may be what did us both in for 3 days of Montezuma’s revenge and malaise. We came back out to anchor and slept it off – just now starting back on solid food. The boat’s clean and we’re cleaned out too!

We have been “on the hook” all but two nights in the last month. We have gotten into some sort of rhythm – not needing to go ashore everyday, maybe only every other or every third day. (Good thing we don’t have a boat dog – or maybe that’s what we need to get us off our duffs). When I think about land-based life, it is hard to imagine being happy and staying busy in essentially a 12 x 40 foot room with the contact of one other person (even one I like) for more that 24 hours at a stretch. Somehow, being on the boat makes that possible. Maybe it’s because we are always moving (rolling, rocking, bouncing, jostling, jiggling, and being massaged). It’s not always a welcome sensation, but it’s not just sitting still. It’s moving, without going anywhere.

We have both been reading – a lot. Will probably hit the cruiser’s book exchange at Yaya’s Café (a whole wall worth of books for the taking) to drop off and refurbish our library. In addition, I had a couple days with the sewing machine out – the salon became a literal “sweat” shop – while I sewed a replacement window shadescreen for one that I lost overboard while boat washing, and fitted removable side curtains to the cockpit shade to give more sun protection. Notice the shady theme – we’re not in Seattle anymore, Todo.

Replacement window screen

More cockpit shade

I was really bummed about losing the window shadescreen as it was part of a matching set that outfitted all the windows on the boat. We had no idea how useful they were while living in the northwest. They allow good light in, full visibility out, and reduce the temperature inside a lot! We had some extra mismatched swatches of screen that we debated about bringing along – and almost cut from the onboard stock. So glad we kept that little bit of extra weight and had all the materials on hand to sew a replacement. Also in the category of ongoing improvements, Lanham replaced all the reefing points – the ties that hold the bottom folds of the mainsail in place against the boom when we want to reduce sail in bigger winds. They got a lot of use on our way down the coast and they are now all longer, all stronger, and ready for more action.

New reefing points

And yes, in case you are wondering if we went diving to try to retrieve the sunken window cover, we did. The visibility in the marina was about 6 inches and the water very unappealing (gets my second vote on what may have made us ill). We had already had some experience with the poor visibility underwater out in the anchorage. In a geezer moment, Lanham dove into the water for a swim with his glasses still on his face. They went down quickly! We used our Man-Overboard button on the GPS to mark the spot and then next day out came all the scuba gear. Everything worked great getting to the bottom and he could have stayed for hours, but the search for a pair of glasses was by feel only.  Getting to the vicinity might be possible, seeing anything on the bottom was not. Fortunately, they were his oldest glasses and he has others, which now have a dedicated croakie that lives around his neck for spontaneous swimming. Since the scuba tank was open and all the gear on, the bottom of the boat got a good scrub and a couple of zincs were replaced.

By the way… pistol shrimp don’t seem to live in Banderas Bay… and for you doubting Thomases (Keith and others), our new theory about the bubbling, clicking noise is that it may have been the sound of the growing colonies of the tiny tube worms with calcified shells that had attached to the underside of the hull, particularly around all the intake vents. That is if the sound of scrubbing them off is the same as the sound of their building up. Anyway, all is quiet in the night – or at least we can’t hear anything amiss over the distant techno-beat at the various discotheques around the bay that stay open until 4 am.

So, we hope to head out tomorrow – in search of more pristine waters and perhaps less populated anchorages. Whatever the next spot is like we think we can expect a fresh breeze, more birds and fish to watch, and another sunset tomorrow – we do feel lucky. 

Muy agradecido

Happy Thanksgiving All – we are happily and humidly hanging on the hook, here at La Cruz. 

We are cooking in! with a local theme – seafood. There are turkey dinners (catering to us yatistes) in some of the restaurants in town, but a visit to the Mercado Pescado yesterday morning has led us to marinating shrimp, defrosting Mahi Mahi steaks, cooking up a batch of cayote (a squash that crosses a zuccini with a pear), and topping it off with pumpkin bread baked yesterday. We plan a day of cooking, reading, floating, and maybe a phone call or two to family. Thinking of all our friends and appreciating your enthusiasm for our year away.

On Monday, it will already be two weeks that we have been off the town of La Cruz. We have enjoyed the relaxation, scouted out all the most authentic places in town, and are ready to move on. We will wait to formulate a plan about how/when/where? to receive the exhaust pipe that we want to carry as a spare for the distance ahead. So no departure date yet…

Photos will help paint a picture of some of the highlights of our week. (Things like laundry, fridge defrosting, and boat washing didn’t make the photo file.)

A highlight last weekend was a horseback ride before we left the beach at Bucerias. That’s “Tequilla” on the right and “Platano” on the left. Antonio, the horse owner was happy to let us run them. What a treat! The only thing that was missing were our long pants – we came away a little raw after a 30 minute ride.

A great stretch of beach for riding

We bought one of these beautiful hand turned painted bowls.

The birds go crazy when the fisherman brought their nets into the beach
at Bucerias

The courtyard at Yaya's and sweet resident dog

Next, we had a Saturday night dinner reservation at YaYa’s, back in La Cruz. The dinner was so-so, but we were really there for the Cuban dance band. We danced together, and joined the owner’s daughter when she led us in the Cha-cha-cha. Melinda even got to dance with the bartender who left his post regularly to show his smooth style on the dance floor. The band was a trio – bongo drums, keyboard, and vocalist. They added to the top of recorded music – but a decent sound system and great fun!

Rick's cuban dance band

The Chachacha

The dancing bartender

Some of my little friends, Carlos and Kamus
playing "Memoria" with the flashcard I made.

On Monday and Wednesday nights, I volunteered at the little outdoor night school in town. There is another American who teaches English regularly to older kids and teenagers. I was there to help out with any younger kids who showed up. The first night I had two, a 6 and an 8 year old. We got to know each other and did some math story problems, a little singing and lots of laughing. They were surprised that I didn’t know more Spanish! They loved drawing, counting, and learning some English words. The next night, 3 different kids came. We made flash card for parts of the body and play a memory game, along with some more singing and movement. They were like kids everywhere – loved to get moving, made it playful, and beamed when I praised them for learning new things. If were going to stay here a longer time, I would commit to more sessions. I am thinking about ways to help send school supplies to Angelica and Sergio who run the program. Their dream is to have a mobile library in addition to the evening classes. Continuity seems important. They said they had enough supplies in November through March, while the cruisers are here to donate, but the rest of the year was tough for them.

The older kids working on English lessons

These guys were so proud of the puzzles they worked. They insisted that I take their picture

This town has definitely had much impact from the building of the fancy marina – for better and probably for worse. We suspect that most of the locals will be bought out in the next 10 years. Apparently the marina owns much of the waterfront and hopes to develop it with hotels, etc.

These kids were playing a popular street game that I haven't quite
figured out -- a cross between Twiddly-Winks and Pokeman

That’s a quick up-date. I’m going to take the dinghy into the marina and try to post this today. 

HAPPY TURKEY DAY ALL – Feeling especially thankful for today’s slight breeze, for our flopper-stoppers, and such an amazing travel opportunity!  Love, M & L

Staying put… for now

We have been exploring the town of La Cruz and enjoying the free anchorage outside the marina. We are in contact with the one human on the planet who knows and sells parts for our boutique Beemer engine. He is working on shipping a new exhaust pipe to a dealer or yacht broker in PV. In the meantime our patch is working fine, so technically we could move on… but maybe we like the excuse to stay put a bit, and La Cruz is a fun place to do it.

Very cool place to snorkel at Isla Tres Marietas

We took the day on Thursday for a field trip – about 2 hours NW to the islands of Las Tres Marietas – for a day sail and some primo snorkeling! We got there about 9 (3 hours before the tourist party boats). We set our anchor where “the book” advised and headed in toward the rocky beach, used our dinghy anchor and saw some gorgeous fish of all hues. It was a windy, and blustery sea, so the visibility was not the best, but still spectacular and relaxing. Soon we were approached by a very kind panga driver who explained (or somehow helped us understand) that anchoring was not allowed, due to the coral preservation. There were 3 buoys available (which we had assumed were for the commercial boats that would be bring the PV Adventurers). We picked up a buoy, but not until we had a huge fight to dislodge a 100-pound coral covered rock that was wedged in our Bruce anchor when we pulled it up. Oh my! Afraid we didn’t do the coral in that 30 foot spot any good.

Caves above and below the water 

So we had a relaxing day, swimming off the dinghy and boat, then a terrific speedy sail back and re-anchored here at La Cruz. We are a little way off from the bulk of the boats now. The water seems cleaner for jumping in and cooling off, and the pelicans (and their poop) are a little more of a distant source of visual entertainment. It continues to be great fun to watch the birds dive bomb for their dinner.

We have continued to explore the town, and get real familiar with the waiters at the marina bar. We tie up our dinghy at the secure marina dock for $30 pesos a day ($2.50) and can walk into town from there. On one of our evening explorations we came across an English class being taught at the Biblioteca aire libre (Free Outdoor Library). We had a chat (mostly in Spanish!) with the woman who runs it and I am signed up to help with the pequeno ninos class next Monday and Tuesday! On Monday I will help another volunteer and on Tuesday I can bring an activity to do with the kids. I’m very excited to check this out! It’s the kind of thing I am hoping to find opportunities for while on this trip. This will give me a good taste of it. The class is held at 5:30… and that’s about all I know right now. Stay tuned!

My successful excursion into making fresh salsa verde y rojo!

So, we are hanging out, maintaining the boat with daily chores (outboard motor mount improvement, chrome cleaning and polishing…), cooking with chilies, cilantro, and lime, reading up on next ports as well as our novels, and trying to stay cool. Everything is pretty moist, but we haven’t found mildew (yet?) The next challenge is finding wi-fi to get these recent ramblings out to you. We got a password and connection today, but the speed was not going to make picture uploading feasible. Ah well, we’ll try again tomorrow.

And... it's Saturday, we took a mini bus into Bucerias, found free Internet (fast!) with a bucket of beer. Here are extemporaneous photos... Lanham talking to Ellie on cell phone (hi Ellie) and Lisa -- here is a view of the beach you can walk when you get her in February!

Lanham had a visit from a this nina selling her bracelets and they made quick friends!

The Town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

These are the ritzy villas on the hill to the east side of La Cruz.

At first light on Monday we saw the mountains of Punta Mita in the distance, passed by the Islas Tres Marietas, aware of the unmarked rocks that are charted to be in the passage. Another 25 miles and we were into the Bay of Banderas by 9am. We headed to the anchorage that we have heard so much about off of the marina and town of La Cruz (de Huanacaxtle). We are well anchored with about 15 other boats. There is some swell, but not uncomfortable.

This poor guy washed up on the deck during the passage to PV

This is the breakwater just beyond which we are anchored.

The breakwater has incorporated these cool sculptural castings -- made from giant dixie cups?

One of our neighboring boats has not had human residents for quite some time it seems.

It's cool off time!

The weather is … HUMID. The sun doesn’t really break completely through the overcast sky. We both felt exhausted and spent the rest of Monday napping, resting, and staying cool by jumping in the water. At 88 degrees it barely reduces your body temperature, but the cool rinse off with the shower at the transom is refreshing. The fans in the boat are wonderful -- one in the galley, at the salon table, at each of the bunks. Again, we feel so lucky that Solar Wind came equipped for tropical cruising including the window sunscreens, fans, shade covers, etc, etc. that we might not have ever thought we would need from our NW sailing experience.

Nightly sunset over Punta Mita

By Tuesday morning we started to feel like waking up and we spent the afternoon and evening exploring the town of La Cruz on foot. With the building of a new marina, La Cruz has been discovered by cruisers, and land-based ex-pats who have been opening restaurants, charting businesses, and building colorful homes off the cobblestone streets just up from the beach. To the north are the resort areas of Salulita and Punta Mita, just to the south is the small beach town of Bucerias. and beyond, around the curve of the large bay are the lights of Puerto Vallarta. These are all connected by modern and inexpensive buses. We plan to stay at least a few more days. It is a very secure feeling anchorage (and free lodging) with the adjacent towns accessible and friendly.

A risky crossing on the Marina driveway

Here are some photos from our self-guided walking tour of La Cruz. There are so many wonderful scenes. We love the blend of old and new, of wild life and cultural life. We continue to practice our Spanish. Some days feel like we are sliding backwards, but on some level the language must be sinking in… Here is the wonderful mix that is La Cruz: